Reviewed by Robert Brown Lovely to look at, impossibly delightful to hold, the Netflix mini-series “Chef’s Table: France” has as its primary concern the taste of food which, unlike paintings, prints, movies, photographs and the written word, can’t be grasped and retained, but only implied. It is a misfortune shared with every manifestation of “food […]
Read moreLe Coucou: A Tail of Two Pheasants.
Reviewed by Robert Brown The battlefield of New York restaurants is filled with the remains of foreign adventurism gone awry. Ever since the 1939 New York World’s Fair at which Henri Soulé started Restaurant Le Pavilon, foreign chefs and restaurateurs, most of whom have been from France, have both been eaten up or taken the […]
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Diningology 